Ground-up spices waited in small, clear prep bowls, and a half- chopped leek lay limply on their cutting board.

Put in a pan a lump of butter the size of an egg, with a chopped leek and a sprig of chervil.

Add a very little chopped leeks or onion, pour some sauce, "Lombarda" (see Sauces, page 31), over the salad, and garnish with water-cress.